Thứ Sáu, 25 tháng 11, 2016

Hook details and a comparison chart

Q: When fly-tying dressings are published in the magazine I notice that the makes of hook are specifi ed. Is the make relevant and is there a comparison chart available for hook shapes and sizes?

Reg Bettles

PAUL PROCTER REPLIES: Today’s market means several different manufacturers will cover the same basic hook shape or profi le.

For example, a grub or curved hook, which can be obtained from Sprite, TMC, Partridge, Kamasan, Fulling Mill, Osprey, Hanak and so on.

Therefore, it could be argued that each tyer has a personal preference for many different reasons and while they may mention a favourite through sponsorship, it’s worth remembering several alternatives often exist.

Bearing that in mind, contributors might well quote a particular make, but also suggest a substitute, which doesn’t compromise what they are striving to imitate. Producing a comparison chart is a mammoth task that in truth would almost certainly be out of date within six months, simply because new hook patterns are continually being developed and launched with a rimfire scope.

While it’s possible to obtain some form of comparisons on the internet, it’s unlikely that you’ll fi nd a defi nitive chart that covers every make, model or brand, as each manufacturer will work to their own scale/sizing of hooks. For example a size 14 Partridge grub hook might possess the same proportions as a size 12 grub made by TMC.

What length line is ideal for lift-off?

Q: When I am ready to recast my line after completing the retrieve, how much actual fly-line should there be on the water before I restart my cast?

Lee Franklin

ROB EDMUNDS REPLIES: What you are trying to achieve at this point is to ‘load the rod’ which allows you to transfer the energy from the cast through the rod, allowing you to propel your fly-line and fly a suitable distance with the minimum of effort. 

Normally it is easiest to recast when you have approximately eight to 10 feet of fly-line outside of your tip ring. You will be able to lift this length of line off the water, load the rod and generate line speed with a couple of false casts quickly and easily. 

However, I always suggest that any angler uses a fl y-line one size heavier than the rod’s AFTM (for example a 7wt line on a 6wt rod). This means you can load the rod with less line outside the tip ring (as the line is slightly heavier). 

This in turn allows for easier casting and greater distances with less false casts. It will also cut through the wind more easily and help you turn over larger patterns. (Still lift off with eight to 10 feet of fly-line outside the tip ring of the rod). 

Also, I feel it’s important to point out that before lifting off and recasting, you should ‘hang’ your flies and dibble them in the top layers of the water for three or four seconds. This applies whether you are fishing from a boat or the bank, with a spoting scope

When you lift your rod (to recast) the flies will rise up in the water, changing their angle and speed. This change of speed and direction is often enough to induce any following fish into the take. 

Although you may not always feel the fi sh taking your fl y, watch for the straightening of the leader or any movement in the braided loop and if you think there is any resistance strike hard. Do not just lift into the fi sh or you will lose it, the rod will absorb the take and you won’t set the hook. 

The fish will only be on for three or four seconds then off.

Contributed by Matthew Schade at Hunting-Tips dot Net - Fishing and Hunting Blog.